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montepulciano - wonderful art exhibit

Visited this wonderful art exhibit in Montepulciano today - post impressionist Italian artists - you can see the influences of the french impressionists - but a touch of paint and play of light all their own - very Tuscan

The Macchiaioli in Montepulciano

This is a blockbuster art exhibition, a celebration of Post-Impressionism, Italian-style, or, more specifically, Tuscan-style. The exhibition, Macchiaioli a Montepulciano, covers the leading Post-Impressionists of the day, in a movement that had its roots in Tuscany. `Revolutionary’ Florentine artists, from the 1850s onwards, started experimenting with splashes of colour. The revolutionary aspect partly lies in the way these Tuscan artists used paint -Impressionistically - in splashes (`macchia’ means splash or mark). The movement was also influenced by French Post-Impressionism but was drawn to the narrative value in art, as well as to landscape painting.

On show are seventy works that once belonged to the most prestigious Macchiaioli collectors of the early twentieth century. Many of these artworks have rarely been on show before. You can appreciate seventy masterpieces that cover an artistic movement that spans the end of the 19th-century and the start of the 20th-century. The major Macchiaioli Post-Impressionist artists include Giovanni Fattori, Telemaco Signorini, Silvestro Lega, Odoardo Borrani, along with their followers. The results include everything from intimate domestic scenes to stunning landscapes of the Livorno Coast or Tuscan countryside.

Art-lovers can link the blockbuster exhibition to an exploration of the Tuscan landscapes that inspired many of these masterpieces. For instance, explore the Montepuciano Wine Route, the Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Contact: http://www.museisenesi.org (English version too). The exhibition is open daily (except Monday) from 10am to 8pm, and until 10pm at weekends. Booking: Museo Civico Pinacoteca Crociani, Via Ricci, 10, Montepulciano, tel (+39) 0578 717300 or Montepulciano tourist office (+39) 0578 757341. Tickets: €7.

Please check website for EXACT dates.

Venice - A gourmet's Guice

It's often said that Venice is a poor place for food. But that's only true if you're prepared to look no farther than your nose – or rather, no farther than busy St Mark's Square and the Rialto. Armed with the right addresses, you'll find a growing clutch of places specialising in local cuisine; tiny retreats with a great neighbourhood feel.

This great article appeared in The Telegraph - click here for full article with details and information about some lovely places to eat in Venice -

The neighbourhood osterie, trattorie and bacari (wine and snack bars) where the Venetians themselves eat and

drink are often buried deep in quiet backwaters. Many are tiny: it's best to book at any time of the year.

As for fine dining, there are only a handful of places worthy of your money; the two best, described below, are

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both hotel restaurants close to St Mark's.

Here's my selection of the best places to eat in the city:

ALLA MADONNA

Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594 (0039 041 522 3824; www.ristoranteallamadonna.com)

(http://www.ristoranteallamadonna.com)

This famous trattoria, tucked down a side street by the Rialto Bridge, was opened in 1954 and makes a great

choice for a large group of friends. Always busy, often with a queue outside, it's memorable not so much for its

traditional dishes as for the bustle, the old-fashioned ambience and the swift service from uniformed waiters.

Speed is the key here: you can be in and out inside an hour.

AL PORTEGO

Calle la Malvasia, Castello 6015 (041 522 9038)

For a typical, and good-value Venetian bacaro (wine bar), try this upper–floor, wood-lined place with prettily

curtained windows and a separate eating area for those who want to be removed from the buzz.

Choose from the range of cicheti (snacks) or hot dishes such as pasta e fasioi or bigoli in salsa, or simply stand at

the bar with the locals and have a glass of wine.

ANICE STELLATO

Fondamente della Sensa, Cannaregio 3272 (041 720744)

On a romantic canal in a slow-moving corner of Cannaregio, this simple, family-run osteria has gained a

Venice: A gourmet's guide - Telegraph http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/foodandwineholidays/74473...

reputation for traditional dishes that are carefully cooked and often subtly flavoured. You might try carpacci di

pesce (thin slices of tuna or salmon dressed with olive oil and fragrant herbs) or tagliatelle with prawns and

courgette flowers, or the fish risotto. Whichever, you'll find excellent cooking at very reasonable prices.

ANTICHE CARAMPANE

Rio Terrà de la Carampane, San Polo 1911 (524 0165; antichecarampane.com (http://antichecarampane.com) )

Don't even think of venturing to Antiche Carampane, not far from the Rialto but well hidden, without working out the route (details on the website). A long-time favourite with city dignitaries and their wives, the white-walled restaurant, hung with pictures, is both cosy and elegant and the seafood, especially the delicate fritto misto di pesce con le moeche (soft-shell crabs), is beautifully cooked. Service is brisk, but warm.

ORTE SCONTA

Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886 (041 522 7024)

Despite its cult status, especially among British visitors, no recommendation of Venetian places to eat would be

complete without this well-known restaurant. Choose the tasting menu and expect a parade of little fish dishes:

marinated anchovies, soft-shell crab, spider crab paté, schie (tiny shrimp) with polenta, garusoli (spiny-shelled

snails), sarde in soar, latti di sepie and more. Then perhaps a primo piatto of pasta made on the premises; you

are unlikely to have room for more. But be warned: it may come across as a humble trattoria, but the prices are

high.

DALLA MARISA

Fondamente di San Giobbe, Cannaregio 652b (041 720211)

Marisa comes from a family of butchers and her wonderful menu is mainly meat-based, an antidote to the many

fish restaurants in Venice. Dishes include the unusual risotto con le secoe, made with a cut of beef around the

backbone, bollito misto, tripe and succulent ragouts. A small, no-nonsense place with tables inside and on the

pavement. Once found, it will become a favourite.

DE PISIS, HOTEL BAUER

Campo San Moisè, San Marco 1459 (041 520 7022; bauervenezia.com (http://bauervenezia.com) )

With sensational views – perhaps the best in Venice – there is simply no more romantic place to dine than the

terrace of De Pisis. Not only is it seductive, by candlelight and under moonlight, but the food lives up to the

setting. The delicate, widely influenced dishes make a refreshing change from the usual Venetian diet. Choose

from the seasonal tasting menu (highly recommended), the traditional Venetian or short à la carte menus: the

desserts are particularly delicious.

HOTEL METROPOLE

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4149 (041 520 5044; hotelmetropole.com (http://hotelmetropole.com) )

Of the half dozen or more hotels along the Riva degli Schiavoni, with its matchless views of the lagoon, this is my

favourite. Still in private hands, it has endearing touches (the owner is a collector: everywhere you look are carved

angels, lecterns, church pews, crucifixes, fans) and a core of twinkly-eyed staff who have been there forever. But

while the hotel retains its personality, it has also kept up with the times with the arrival of the Zodiac bar and the

Met restaurant. You can dine in the intimate wood-panelled former chapel where Vivaldi taught orphan girls to

sing, the velvet-hung salone or the shady garden.

VINI DA GIGIO

Fondamente San Felice, Cannaregio 3628a (041 528 5140; vinidagigio.com (http://vinidagigio.com) )

Vini da Gigio is not secret, and nor should it be, for it is one of the best-value restaurants in Venice, filled with

locals, with a cosy yet buzzing atmosphere and colourful owner. The comfortable dining room and small tables are

ideal for groups of four or five, and though it's always busy, the service is courteous and you never feel hurried.

Specialities include raw fish antipasto, beef carpaccio, meatballs and masorino alla buranella (Burano-style duck). You must leave room for pudding.

Venice- Eat like a local in Venice

Eat like a local in Venice

Don't spoil your visit to Venice by eating in over-priced tourist traps – follow the locals' lead and graze on bar snacks in back-street osterie

Check this great article in the Guardian UK click here for details

My trip to one of the world's most romantic cities was inspired by the least romantic of situations: a boys' night out in Soho, London, the kind that ends up in a random curry house before falling asleep on the night bus. On this night, however, we fell, quite by chance, into Polpo (see Jay Rayner's review), a relatively new restaurant that appeared to be some kind of tapas bar, was lively and not too pricey – yes, this would do.

It was an inspired choice. It turns out we weren't eating tapas ("We don't use the T-word here," said the waiter) but cichèti, small snacks unique to the bars of Venice. Our conversation, usually dominated by football, turned to the tenderness of sliced flank steak and the sweet softness of the sensational cuttlefish cooked in its own ink.

On more than 20 visits to Venice, Polpo owner Russell Norman has trawled the back-street bàcari, the small bars where locals pop in for a glass of wine and a snack, to find inspiration for Polpo. He is the right man to talk to about where to eat in what he calls "one of the world's worst destinations for food lovers".

"Avoid all the crappy tourist places," is Norman's advice, "anywhere with the menu in six languages stuck in the window or, worse still, one with photographs of lurid pizzas.

"But there is still a side of Venice which is alive and isn't Disneyland, and it's best typified by the bàcari."

With those words ringing in my ears, and a list of his favourite bàcari in my pocket, I headed off for La Serenissima.

Cutting edge ... La Cantina. Photograph: Gavin McOwan

A bar crawl, or giro di òmbre, is the best way to try Venice's bàcari, popping into each for a cichèti and accompanying òmbra (small glass of wine). And a good place to start was Ca' d'Oro – Alla Vedova (Cannaregio 3912, Ramo Ca' d'Oro), one of the best-known bàcari, on the Strada Nuova, well away from the city's touristy hub. On a Friday night it was packed with punters lingering around the bar, waiting for the hot polpette (pork rissoles) to emerge from the kitchen. These delicious balls of salty, finely minced pork (the inspiration for the meatballs at Polpo) were snapped up within seconds of hitting the old marble bar counter, washed down by unbottled Veneto red in tiny glasses. Both cost €1 a pop.

see Map of this trip - by clicking here Bacari Map of Venice

Venice Bacari

Part of the research for Russell Norman's Polpo restaurant, involved going to Venice as many times as he possibly could for ideas and inspiration. It became apparent very quickly that Venice's real culinary heart was in the wine bars and bàcari, not in the (mostly) awful restaurants. Read what happened when Gavin McOwan followed Russell's trail by looking above or clicking on this link

What's new in France for 2010 - Rick Steves

What's new in France for 2010

Travel writer Rick Steves looks at what's new in France this year, from online Eiffel Tower reservations to Paris museum renovations and Loire château tours.

By Rick Steves

Tribune Media Services

PREV of NEXT

RICK STEVES

Marie-Antoinette's hamlet at Versailles -- a working farm complete with domestic animals and thatched-roof houses -- is becoming increasingly popular with travelers.

Mixing an abundance of cultural treasures and national pride, France is spiffing up its sights and museums from the Rhine to the Pyrenees. Of course, the biggest news is in Paris, where 2010 brings important changes that smart travelers will want to know about.

The Eiffel Tower's new online reservation system (www.toureiffel.fr) should help on-the-ball travelers minimize time spent in the tower's notorious lines.

Facing the Eiffel Tower, Champ de Mars Park used to be the scene of families lounging on picnic blankets and kids chasing Frisbees. No longer, as keep-off-the-grass signs have returned. Thankfully, zones on the periphery still let you enjoy a sprawl on the lawn.

Many Parisian museums are renovating and tweaking their offerings. Paris' wonderful Picasso Museum has closed for a 30-month (some think longer) expansion. The Musee d'Orsay is also doing major renovations. At the Louvre, construction is under way on an Islamic Art wing, due to open in 2011. The pre-Classical Greek section is currently closed, and the Classical Greek pieces will likely be reorganized. The Army Museum's recently renovated Arms and Uniforms section covers French military history from Louis XIV to Napoleon III. And for those who enjoy city vistas more than abstract art, you can now get a cheap escalator-only ticket at the Pompidou Center, skip the higher-priced museum, and ride the escalator directly to the top for the view.

Long lines are the norm at the Catacombs, where skeletons unearthed from former Paris cemeteries have been neatly and eerily stacked, filling miles of tunnels left from a medieval quarry. Waits of 60 to 90 minutes are common. If you arrive later than 2:30 p.m., you may not get in. The Catacombs recently reopened after a spate of vandalism caused it to shut down. Security has been improved, and the loose skulls have been wired into place.

Versailles is wrapping up its multiyear renovation project, and all parts should be open. While Europe's greatest palace is the big draw, the vast royal park with the Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (the queen's frilly rural escape) is attracting crowds, too. Most of the palace is covered by the Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuseumpass.com), which for most travelers is a better deal than the LePasseport sold at the château and online (www.chateauversailles.fr).

Also outside Paris, Chartres' cathedral is undergoing routine restoration. So, while the interior will still be divinely lit, it'll be mostly scaffolding that's illuminated.

At Giverny, Monet's famous gardens are now open seven days a week from April through October. Adjacent to his studio, what was the Museum of American Art has become the Museum of the Impressionists, showing temporary exhibits. Appropriately, the featured artist in 2010 is Monet.

The famous abbey island of Mont St. Michel has been a huge pilgrim attraction for centuries. A modern causeway made it easier to reach the island, but also changed the flow of the tidal waters, causing the bay to slowly become marshland. These days, plans to restore the abbey's island status are moving ahead. Scheduled for completion in early 2010, the Couesnon River dam at the start of the causeway retains water upriver during high tide and releases it at low tide, in effect flushing the bay and keeping its famed mud flats muddy. In the future, the causeway will be realigned to meet a sleek foot bridge, and visitors will be shuttled from mainland parking lots to the bridge to walk the remaining 300 yards (over the water at high tide) to the island. The entire project is planned to be completed by 2014.

In the Loire, taking a bus or minivan excursion to see the valley's many châteaux can save time (in line) and money (on admissions) when you purchase your château ticket at a discounted group rate from the driver. Amboise's tourist office now sells "le Pass" — tickets bundled in groups of three to save on entry fees (most Loire area tourist information offices offer some sort of pass promoting their sights). To avoid the lines at the popular Château de Chenonceau, purchase advance tickets at local tourist offices or from ticket machines. In the great castle town of Chinon, a free panoramic elevator now zips visitors up to the newly renovated fortress that crowns the city.

All these improvements are a reminder that, more than ever, France is enthusiastic about sharing its heritage and welcoming visitors.

Edmonds-based Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. His column runs weekly at seattletimes.com/travel and occasionally in print.

How to Rent a Villa - helpful tips -

How To a Villa – Tips for a successful Rental

While there are many excellent ways to slow down and experience Europe one of the best methods is renting an apartment, farmhouse, or villa. Find just the right spot and use it as a base to see the countryside at the same time experiencing the pleasure of really living in the country – even for just a short time.

How did you find the right spots? The same way you would at home: ask friends, look through guidebooks, and surf the web.

Before you look, identify what you hope to experience and where you want to go. Are you looking for an exciting and lively week in an urban location? Then Florence, Rome or Paris are better options than the countryside of Tuscany or Provence.

For example, If you are with teenage children you may be better in a town – such as Florence; you and I may dream of that lovely house in the countryside – where we can sit, enjoying the pool while sipping a glass of local wine, watching the sun set; but what about that 17 year old and his 14 year old sister? It is much easier if they can find a nice gelato ( ice cream) shop on a corner of the Piazza della Signoria in Florence and listen to the street musicians in front of the Uffizzi – think about it before you decide where to stay; Ask us – our experts can advise you.

Tips for Enjoying a Successful Rental

More than ever, when you’re staying in a weekly rental property, you need to be flexible and independent. Once you’ve checked in, that may be the last you see of the owners. Of course emergency contacts are always available.

Here are some tips to make the best of your rental experience:

1. Avoid peak season for better prices. Rental prices follow the old rule of supply and demand. You’ll pay more to visit popular vacation regions when the Europeans take their holidays in July and August. General rule of thumb for pricing is about € 1100 per bedroom per week – so if there are two of you this would be an average price, if there are 6 – i.e. 3 couples – the price would be about € 3300 per week. These are averages so of course prices can be lower or higher. Peak season is from late June to late August. Mid May, September and October are great months to visit Italy – good weather, pricing better;

2. If you want amenities, be willing to pay for them. A private pool can add substantially to the cost of a rural rental, as can air-conditioning in an urban apartment. During one of Florence’s hottest June weeks, though, the pool and AC were worth every euro!

3. For two to six people, Borgo style apartments are an excellent lower-cost option to an entire villa or farmhouse. Often the owners have renovated an original rambling farmhouse or medieval estate into a series of well-constructed apartments with private kitchens, bathrooms, living areas, and individual outdoor terraces. They usually share a common pool and other amenities.

4. Most properties rent on a traditional Saturday-to-Saturday time period. You will probably be unable to rent for a different or shorter time, especially during peak seasons.

5. You will need private transportation, such as a rental car, to fully enjoy—or even reach—a rural rental property. Many properties are located in the countryside – up an unpaved (strada Bianca) road. Be prepared for gravel roads of varying quality, they are regularly maintained and usually fine. Ask your agent if you are concerned.

6. The rental property usually comes with an “instruction manual” containing information on how to operate the appliances and suggestions for local restaurants, shops, and sightseeing. Go with the property owner’s suggestions to discover local restaurants and activities you might never stumble upon otherwise.

7. Use the local mom-and-pop grocery stores, butcher shops, pastry shops, and bakeries. Get to know your local green grocer and he’ll treat you like a local—personally selecting the ripest fruit and freshest salad fixings. Part of the fun is collecting all the goodies; the other part is creating meals with them in your fully-equipped kitchen. You can also arrange for any or all meals to be cooked. A fun thing to do is arrange for a cook to come in and do a lesson in your home.

8. Explore your neighborhood. An early morning walk as the sun rises will probably find you in the company of the local farmer as he trims his grape vines, or the neighboring Italian grandmother who is lovingly tending her small garden. Go ahead—interact, even if you don’t speak the local language.

9. Slow down and enjoy. Even take a day off—or, as Rick says, a vacation from your vacation. One of the joys of staying for at least a week in one location is you can develop a true dolce far niente ("sweetness of doing nothing") attitude. If the rain is pattering outside, grab a book from the in-house library and curl up on the sofa.

10. Remember renting a property offers the chance to partake in the culture of the area chosen, living for a few weeks in the same surroundings as a local inhabitant would.

These converted properties may not be official tourist structures such as hotels, residences etc but private houses. Being such, they do not have standards or categories that are internationally recognized, rather they reflect, in their architecture and furnishings, the local traditions and personal taste of the owner.

In order to live this experience in the right spirit, it is important not only that the client accepts but also that he will be able to appreciate the differences in the properties offered. .

Staying put in one spot gives you the chance to let the days unwind without a plan. .

Often the highlights of our journeys are the unexpected thrills – a medieval gathering in Cortona, with all the townspeople in full costume, a sunset as the monks of Sant’Antimo chant the vespers… and so much more.

HIghways and Traffic Cameras in Italy

The Autostrada is the main highway system in Italy and is similar to the Interstate highway system in the US. The Autostrada is the fastest way to get around Italy. We use it whenever it is practical. The winding and slow country roads will drive you crazy eventually, especially if you really need to get somewhere quickly. The Autostrada are toll highways; you pay to use them.

Entering and Exiting

The exit and entrance ramps for the Autostrada frequently have very tight curves, so drive carefully. When you are getting on the Autostrada, you may find that the entrance lane is short and you are merging with fast-moving traffic. Make sure there is room to enter the highway before you merge from the entry lane and once on the road, speed up quickly. Wait in the entry lane until you see enough space in the traffic to safely join the highway.

When you pass an entrance along the Autostrada, be mindful of people entering on the right and be prepared to give way.

Passing Lane

Most Autostrade are two lanes in each direction with dividers down the middle. The left lane, the passing lane, is only for passing and is to be approached cautiously. We call this the "Mercedes lane", because it is used by expensive cars who drive very, very fast. Before you pull out to pass, be sure you have lots of room. That Mercedes in the far distance will be coming up behind you in seconds. Once you have passed, immediately pull back into the slow lane. If you are driving in the left lane, people coming up from behind will flash their lights at you to tell you to move back to the slower right lane.

But, don't be afraid of the passing lane. You will need to use it to get by slower cars. Just use it cautiously.

Note: Italy now enforces the Autostrada speed limits. For example on the highway to Pisa from Florence, there are speed cameras set up about every 10 km. you will see a sign advising that one is coming up...you have about 1km to slow down..then you're on camera...expect a ticket in the mail if you are over

Be aware of traffic cameras in the Chianti and Florence (Firenze)!

Driving in the Chianti can be fun and easy. Narrow two lane roads wind through vineyards, forest areas, stretches of patchwork fields and charming towns. It is easy to be lulled by all of this and forget that there are traffic and speed laws to be followed. Thankfully, authorities have made it fairly easy to avoid tickets and to be good citizens and visitors, but it is important to know the signs and the laws.

Traffic Cameras on the Roads

In much of Tuscany and increasingly in more areas of Italy, it is common to have roadside cameras that clock your speed and license number. If you are exceeding the limit, you will be ticketed. A ticket will be sent to the address of the person to whom the car is registered. If you are driving a rental car, the ticket is sent to the rental agency that then bills the charge to your credit card. Usually this will not show on your credit card statement for several weeks.

see what the NY Times writes about the Italian Highways

European response mixed to new U.S. airport demands
Flights delayed ...security issues...

European response mixed to new U.S. airport demands

Airline passengers bound for the United States faced a hodgepodge of security measures across the world Monday, but most European airports did not appear to be following a new U.S. demand for increased screening of passengers from 14 countries... USA Today

Villas & some restaurants in the Val d'Orcia - the lovely southern region of Tuscany
Looking for the winding cypress lined roads? near the town of Montichiello a tiny little hamlet set in the val d'Orcia - boasts one of the famous winding roads and the famous La Foce has views of the one below

some restaurants nearby well worth a look ( price may vary)

Restaurants In Castiglioncello del Trinoro, La Rosa del Trinoro, (39-0578) 265529. Dinner for two with wine, about $46; vegetarian tasting menu, $23. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed Jan. 8 to Feb. 12.

In Pienza, Trattoria Latte di Luna, (39-0578) 748606. Lunch for two with wine, about $29. Open for lunch and dinner; closed Tuesday.

In Monticchiello, La Porta, telephone and fax (39-0578) 755163. Dinner for two with wine, $58. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; closed on Thursday. Classicvacationrental.com has amazing villas nearby

Podere Graziella

Casa Cote Sud stunning villa 8 bedrooms, 8 bathrooms, featured on the cover of Cote Sud Magazine ,UK edition of House & Gardens. Fabulous for large families or groups - call 1 888 830 9650 or email us

Belle d'Orcia a beautiful 8 bedroom villa - stunning view -

see what the New York times has to say about Lucca
Lucca - a wonderful walled town - well worth a visit or a stay- Read what the New York Times has to say about Lucca

with its 16th-century walls, featuring some of Italy's finest medieval and Renaissance architecture, superb dining, antique markets, classical and rock music festivals, easy access to stunning nearby villas in the surrounding hills and with endless beaches less than half an hour away. Lucca is one of Tuscany's best-kept secrets.

Beautiful villas are dotted throughout the countryside and the hills surrounding Lucca. Napoleon' sister settled here for a time - followed by many nobles looking for 'favour' - the result - some stunning villas in the hills above Lucca, beautiful gardens and more. Great estates in the countryside surrounding Lucca - within a short 15 min drive, 30 min drive to the beaches of Viareggio ( see what the New York Times has to say about this popular beach destination

Classivacationrental.com has many lovely villas in this area - within easy reach of Lucca and the beaches of the Tuscan coast.

From here it is an easy drive to Cinque Terre for a long day trip, to Florence for some great shopping ( or take the train from Lucca station) - but more on this another day; You may want to visit Prato on the way - the textile centre of Italy's fashion industry ( see what the NY Times says about Prato)

New Years in Italy
New Year's Eve in Italy - La Festa di San Silvestro

Celebrate the ending of the old year and beginning of the new year, il capodanno, is a great time to celebrate in Italy.

La Festa di San Silvestro is celebrated December 31 on New Year's Eve. As with most Italian festivals, food plays a major role. Families and friends get together for a huge feast. The key part of the dinner is lentils, symbolizing money and good fortune for the coming year. Traditionally, the dinner in many parts of Italy also includes a cotechino, a large spiced sausage, or a zampone, stuffed pig's trotter. The pork symbolizes the richness of life in the coming year

Rome

Rome's traditional New Year's Eve celebrations are centered in Piazza del Popolo. Huge crowds celebrate with rock and classical music and dancing and of course, fireworks. The celebrations last well into the night. On New Year's day (while the adults are sleeping), children will be entertained in the square by performers and acrobats.

Next to the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, you can still see the exhibit of traditional nativity scenes (through January 8) from 100 regions of Italy and other countries of the world.

Rome has a classical music concert outdoors on the square in front of the Quirinale, off Via Nazionale, around 11:00 followed by fireworks at midnight.

Would you like to stay nearby- some wonderful apartments within easy walking distance - Spanish Steps Apartments offer various sizes - nicely furnished click to see more; Luxury Apartment Spanga Leone is lovely near the Inghliterra Hotel - (where we can get you some fabulous rates/packages too)

Venice

Many restaurants in Venice go all out with huge feasts on New Year's Eve, starting around 9:00 and lasting until midnight. Although expensive, they tend to be very good with many courses and lots of wine. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time. Many restaurants will be closed on New Year's day, however. You can usually expect pizza places, hotel restaurants, and Chinese restaurants to be open.

St Mark's Square has a huge celebration with music, a giant fireworks display, bellini brindisi (toast), and a huge group kiss at midnight. The group kiss will also be held in Piazza Ferretto in Mestre Venice New Year program.

On New Year's Day, many bathers take a chilling dip in the waters of Venice's Lido Beach. That's one way to get over your hangover!

Florence

Many restaurants in Florence will have extravagant meals, too. Be sure to reserve early. Fireworks will be set off at midnight and a good place to see them would be on one of the bridges on the Arno. There will be many private fireworks celebrations all over town, too.

One of the most popular clubs in Florence, Tenax, holds a New Year's Eve party. Here are more nightclubs and places to party New Year's Eve in Florence.

Wonderful apartments in Florence within easy walking distance - Vigna is the perfect spot for a Romantic New Years Eve - canopy bed, trompe d'oeil walls, we can have the champagne on ice -

contact us an info@classicvacationrental.com

Getting into Milan
Milan has three good-sized international airports, although one of them is much more commonly used if you’re flying in from overseas. Malpensa Airport is Italy’s second-largest airport (Rome’s Fiumicino Airport is first) Like Fiumicino, Malpensa is located quite a distance from the city center - roughly 50km. So - how to get into Milan from Malpensa? ( note that the Linate airport is closer to downtown Milan, but not frequently used for international flights)

Milan has an express train that connects Cadorna Station in the city center with Malpensa Airport’s Terminal 1 called, cleverly, the Malpensa Express. It’s about a 40-minute trip from end to end with a few intermediate stops along the way, and trains leave Malpensa every half hour - at 23 minutes past the hour and 53 minutes past the hour - round the clock, 7 days a week.

Tickets for the Malpensa Express are €11 for a one-way trip, and don’t forget to validate your ticket before you climb on board the train.

Ticket kiosks at Malpensa are staffed with people who speak enough English to sell you the ticket you will need - but they’re not open 24/7. The kiosks are open from 05:30 until 00:20 on weekdays, with shorter hours on the weekends and holidays. There is an automated ticket machine just before you walk down the ramp to the train platform.

Taking the Bus from Malpensa Airport to Milan

The Malpensa Shuttle leaves from Terminal 1 every half-hour, at 35 minutes past the hour and 55 minutes past the hour between the hours of 06:35 and 23:35. It’ll take you directly to Stazione Centrale (with a couple intermediate stops if they’re requested), making it easy for you to get on a train from Milan to wherever, and it’s about a 50-minute trip (depending on traffic). A ticket is €5.50.

The Malpensa Shuttle Air Pullman also picks up at Terminal 1 and drops off at Stazione Centrale, and it’s also about a 50-minute journey. There are a few more intermediate stops on this route, also by request, and a ticket is €7 one-way (you can get a round-trip ticket for €12 if you know you’ll be making the other half of the trip). Buses leave Malpensa about every 20 minutes or so between the hours of 05:30 and 01:00.

There’s also a bus replacement for the Malpensa Express if it’s not running, and a few buses that will get you from Malpensa to Milan’s other airport, Linate.

Here is a site for buying tickets online - Malpensa shuttle Tickets online

Taking a Taxi from Malpensa Airport to Milan

Because Malpensa is so far from Milan’s city center, you’re looking at an expensive taxi fare. Unlike Rome’s Fiumicino Airport, there’s no fixed price on taxi trips between the airport and the city center in Milan - the 45 - 60 min drive can cost between €75 - €90 . Taxis are found outside Terminal 1 (Arrivals) near gates 4 and 5.

If you wish to avoid this high fare, take the Malpensa Express to Cadorna station. Outside Cadorna station you will find a fleet of taxis . Please remember to look for the official white taxis - do not accept a driver who says he has a taxi for you - unless it is an official one - otherwise you could pay more than double the rate.

To arrange private driver pickup please contact us at Classicvacationrental.com; or email at info@classicvacationrental.com

Chianti village - Montefioralle - one of the loveliest villages
Montefioralle is an ancient walled village rated one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and a 20 minute walk from Greve.

The village of Montefioralle is probably one of the oldest Chianti. A charming photo stop in Chianti - worth the short walk.   These were initially two circuits but houses now fill the space between the original structures. The walls were octagonal in outline, with four gates, modifications of which still exist. When you leave Greve, head towards

There are some lovely properties to rent in this area, small one and two bedroom cottages with views onto this lovely village, or large villas with lovely view and terraces. Details to be posted later. Meanwhile check with www.classicvacationrental.com at info@classicvacationrental.com.

Traffic rules for limited zones Florence
Driving in Italy - helpful hints - Limited (Restricted) Traffic Zones

Driving in Florence has become a real problem. After many years of driving into Florence to return rental cars or simply to spend part of the day in the town, it is now nearly impossible to drive in as a non local without getting a ticket for who knows what infraction. I recently received 3 tickets over a short period of time ( I suppose they just located me) for tickets ranging from 6 months to 12 months old. When coming from the south especially - which is where most of us would arrive from, even if you know that entering the Porta Romana and taking the direct route across the Arno rive to the Borgo Ognissanti ( where most car rental agencies ( except Hertz0 are located - you are bound to get a ticket; The first reason is likely driving through what is called a ZTL - or zones in which only residents can drive. The signs are tiny and not easily seen - and what the heck do the letters ZTL mean to a non-local? Money grab... by all accounts - when I discussed this with my local contacts - ranging from apartment owners to manager of 5 star hotels - they all felt it was a very anti-tourist move and strictly a money grab on the part of the Municpality of Florence.

In Florence and many other towns in Tuscany there are a number of zones covering the historical and hotel district where only cars with special permits may enter. Rental cars typically do not have these permits. Clients must ensure they either get a special permit from the hotel , or make sure that the hotel provides their license details to the proper authorities.

Here are bits of interesting and I hope helpful information - collected from experience and various sources to help

Limited (Restricted) Traffic Zones   - ZTL   (Zona a Traffico Limitato)   are a problem. These zones are areas where cars with special permits only are allowed to drive and are found in many Italian cities and towns. The signs are present at the limits of the zones but not within them, so that if you miss the sign you don't get a second chance. In addition, they sometimes apply only to certain hours on working days. Pisa is notoriously tricky - I recommend not driving in the city centre of Pisa at all. In Florence it is crucial to be aware of the ZTL signs and restrictions. Failure to abide by the rules will cost 80 euros or more each time you enter one of these areas.

Official instructions for Florence ZTL from the official Florence Commune site:

ZTL Traffic Restricted Zone

The entire historic center of Florence (generally speaking the part located within the 19th century ring-roads which is a protected ‘UNESCO Heritage Site’) is a “zona a traffico limitato” (ZTL) or restricted traffic zone. Special rules govern access to, as well as transit and parking in this zone.

Non-residents are prohibited from driving and parking within the ZTL at the following times: - on weekdays (mondays through fridays): from 7.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. On saturdays: from 7,30 a.m. to 6 p.m.  - and (from 17 May to 31 October 2009) also on friday, saturday and sunday night (from 00,00 to 4 a.m.   The boundaries of the ZTL are marked by special road signs and have a series of ‘access points’ which are controlled by cameras that automatically detect the number plates of all the vehicles passing through. Transit through some of the ‘access points’ (those reserved exclusively for public transport and emergency vehicles), is prohibited at all times, 24/7.

Tourists in cars who need to travel within the ZTL to reach their accommodation facilities or a garage can obtain a temporary access permit, although they should still pass through the authorized ‘access points’ only, excluding the lanes reserved for public transport and the pedestrian zones which may not be used at any time. In order to obtain this permit, the number plate of the car concerned should be given to the relevant hotel (or garage) which will undertake to forward the same to the appropriate office. This permit will be issued for a maximum of two hours for baggage transport purposes and, therefore, only on the arrival and departure dates (a permit may also be issued to tourists without a hotel booking entering the ZTL to find accommodation). For the rest of their stay, clients should park their car outside the ZTL, in a commercial garage or the hotel’s own private garage.

Disabled permit holders who need to enter the restricted traffic zone (ZTL) with their vehicle should call the toll-free number 800 339891

In addition to private residents’ vehicles, bicycles, motorcycles and mopeds may access the ZTL (for electric vehicles: info 05540401) Outside the ZTL, the city is divided into ZCS zones (“zona a controllo sosta” - controlled parking zones), where non-residents may park in the blue marked spaces using the pay and display facilities (the white marked spaces are for residents only), or in the various car parks.  In the “Parterre” (Piazza Libertà), “Oltrarno” (Porta Romana), “Beccaria” and “Fortezza Fiera” (Fortezza da Basso) car parks, daily and night-time tariffs are available at concessionary rates.

For further information on car parks and public/private transport:

Florence Parking

Firenze Parcheggi

tel. 055 2720160

www.firenzeparcheggi.it

SAS

tel. 055 374277

www.saspa.it

Muoversi a Firenze

www.muoversiafirenze.it

Link Utili / Useful Links

    •    Pianta ZTL / Map of the restricted traffic zone

**************************************************************

You are able to drive to a hotel or some of the apartments we work with - or to specific parking garages - but it is VITAL that you have the hotel and/or garage or apartment manger provide your license plate number to the correct authorities. Make sure that you have them do this - and follow up. Generally now, my advice is not to drive in Florence - despite the hassle, I now recommend you drop your rental car at the airport ( Florence or whichever town you are dropping off) and pay the taxi fare - it is far cheaper than the very expensive traffic tickets ( my tickets were between €80 - €110 per ticket!) if you are coming in for a day visit - either park outside this area ( for example Piazza Michelangelo - and walk to the historic centre - or take the local bus or a taxi); or use one of the parking houses mentioned on the web links above. Don't even try for the parking house near the train station - unless you are very careful, one of my tickets was for driving in a wrong lane!

write me if you have anything to add... or any tricks you have found for getting around this

See Florence, Siena, Rome and more - in the round - amazing website
I just found this amazing website - it's called Arounder and it contains a selection of great 360° views of a lot of cities.

There are amazing 360° views of Florence. The Virtual Tour of the Duomo square is as if you were there. Look at Pisa too   The virtual tour of Piazza dei Miracoli at dusk is incredible. That’s when the piazza is at its best: so quiet and romantic! There are also virtual tours of other Italian cities, like Rome, Milan, Venice, Parma, Turin and Verona. A great way to remember your visit to Italy, or make plans for meeting on the square when there.

Coffee in Italy

When you rent a villa in Italy or an apartment in Rome, Florence or Venice - coffee becomes a part of your life in Italy. Your first visit in the morning is to the nearby Cafe for a capuccino and cornetto ( a croissant) - have it standing at the bar and save some money; or sit at a nearby table and enjoy the morning crowds - office workers, labourers, mums and kids heading off to school.

Stimulating, but containing less caffeine than any other type of coffee, espresso defines the daily rhythm of life in Italy. A break without an espresso – or rather an espresso without a break – is inconceivable.

This is not just a play on words, but a way of living and enjoying life that entails both positive and practical results. These short breaks are especially productive, since the best ideas are usually born during moments of relaxation. Take a moment and savour life.

How do you order Coffee in Italy

Here are some of the most common types of coffee you can order at a Bar (that's how coffee shops are called in Italy

Caffe' espresso (or simply caffe’) is very concentrated as it is made with less water.

Caffe' lungo is made with more water even though the amount of coffee is always the same. The caffe' lungo is still served in small cups.

Cappuccino is an espresso with milk served in a large cup and with foam on top. The Italian cappuccino is smaller than the American one.

Caffe' macchiato is an espresso with a drop of milk and foam on top.

Latte macchiato (not to be confused with caffe’ macchiato) is a glass of milk with a drop (stain) of coffee.

Caffe’ latte is a foamless espresso to which some warm milk has been added.

Caffe' americano is a very diluted espresso served in a large cup.

Caffe' corretto is an espresso with a shot of liquor (usually Grappa or another liquor of your choice)

Caffe' Hag is a decaffeinated espresso

Chianti and Greve in Chianti -
Chianti:

Chianti: I am often asked about the Chianti area and the town of Greve - here is a quick overview.

The Chianti Classico lies between the larger cities of Florence and Siena. To the east lie the Chianti Mountains, and the area is bounded on the west by the Pesa valley and Elsa river. This is the land of the Gallo Nero, the black rooster. You'll see the signs on the country roads. The main north-south road through Chianti Classico is the state road number 222, shown on the map and known as la Chiantigiana.

Chianti can be compared to a unique vineyard. Hundreds of rows of vines represent the most characteristic feature of Chianti, the land where excellent wines are produced. The high quality of Chianti wine is the result of years of knowledge and   a great tradition of wine-making.

Chianti wine is mostly produced utilising grapes of Sangiovese 75%, Canaiolo 10%, Trebbiano and Malvasia, as well as, Cabernet and Merlot. The feature peculiar to a Chianti wine is a very small yield per plant and a 12 degree minimum of alcoholic content.

To ensure the best quality of Chianti wine, producers cannot sell the wine until a year after the harvest. Wine-making, preservation, aging and bottling have to take place inside the production zone.

A "Gallo Nero" (black rooster) is the trademark which guarantees a bottle of real Chianti wine. To have the "Gallo Nero" label, producers have to put the wine through a rigid taste testing.

Two kinds of wine are available on the market: "Normal" and "Reserve".

"Normal" is Chianti Classico labelled with a "Gallo Nero" surrounded by the red border.

"Reserve" is labelled with the ancient trademark surrounded by the golden border and it is produced with the best grapes which, after a minimum of 27 months aging, give the wine a special full-bodied flavour.

The colour of Chianti is ruby red, tending towards pomegranate red when aged. The flavour is harmonic, dry, sapid, slightly tannic, with an intensely vinous aroma and occasionally a violet scent. The wine of Chianti is perfect to accompany all foods, but especially the traditional food of Tuscany, such as game dishes, roast meats and cheeses.

Greve in Chianti -The center of Chianti Classico is the town of Greve in Chianti. Greve is a good, central town to stay in while visiting Chianti and and also the town with the largest shop for grocery shopping if you are staying at a nearby Villa or apartment. The COOP is found just along the main road with parking underneath, nearby is the wonderful wine tasting place - le Cantine - read below.

Greve has a weekly market in the Piazza Matteotti on Saturday mornings. There is a Chianti Wine Festival on the 2nd weekend of September. There is an wine tasting center on state road 222 where you can taste wine, olive oil, and the sweet Vin Santo. It is a great square to sit on and just watch the comings and goings - find a nice table under the awnings order some pasta or other lovely tuscan meal at this lively spot:

Parking on market day: the main square is closed on market day for parking. There are two decent size parking lots plus a couple of others and one that is under the Coop--but try to avoid that as getting out of there is not an easy proposition (due to the method of paying). For the two lots, there are signs you can follow.

A nice place to stop for a coffee, breakfast, lunch or just a glass of wine, sit and watch the activity in the square:

Caffé Le Logge: On Piazza Matteotti

This is the place many residents of Greve go for a morning pastry and caffé and to catch up on local gossip. They make a good panino here along with basic pasta dishes. There is outside and inside seating.

Other Places to Visit in Greve:

Macelleria Falorni

Piazza Matteotti, 69

Tel: 055-853-029

A great shop - well known for its Tuscan specialities - you have the chance to try salamis and wines as well. Don't forget to check downstairs to see the cheeses aging. Also, a great place to to stop and get your picnic supplies -- They have prosciutto, salami, and even small bite-size wild boar salamis. If you are renting a villa in Chianti , a great place to try the chicken, veal, beef, or pork, all sliced to order. They also have cheese and wine! price.

Nerbone di Greve

Piazza Matteotti, 22

Greve in Chianti

Tel: 055-853-3-08

Closed Tuesday

Summer Hours 12:30-22:00 non stop

A lively restaurant - here you can taste the recipes that have made Nerbone i Florence famous. Service can be slow during busy hours. One good feature - you can eat here are any hour throughout the day.

You can get lots of information at the tourist office here.

The Tourist Office - Greve in Chianti

Via Giovanni da Verrazzano 59 - 50022

Greve in Chianti

Tel (+39) 055 854

Opening hours: March–October: Monday–Saturday 9.30–13 / 14.30–19

One wonderful villa near Greve is Villa Greve Vigna sleeps up to 11 - in 5 bedrooms, located just above Greve with views onto the famous VignaMaggio, birthplace of the 'Mona Lisa' and location for the wonderful film "Much Ado about Nothing" with Kenneth Branagh. Perfect villa for a large family or couples who want to rent a villa in Italy together . We had a great cooking class here - with lamb roasting on a spit, fresh pommodori bruschetta and more... ask about Elizabetta and Melchiore they really do a wonderful hands on cooking class.

Wines:

Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti

Piazza delle Cantine, 2

Greve in Chianti

Open 10am-7pm (summer hours)

The best Enoteca; for Chianti wines, to taste, buy and drink, one of the largest in the Chianti Classico area is Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti, where you can do a tasting of (degustazione) wine, cheese, salame, grappa, and olive oil. There's also a wine musuem. There are over 140 wines to taste, so pace yourself. There are smaller Enotece in villages all over Chianti - this one however give you a great overview of many wines. You buy a prepaid card for whatever denomination suits... then you work your way from the table wines to the super tuscan's wines - each table is set up to showcase about 10 wines - you put yoru glass under the 'tap' and you get 35mm of wine - the table wines start at about €.60 per 'shot' you work your way up to the Brunellos, super tuscans and special vintages that may cost €6 per glass ( however they also sell for several hundred per bottle); from here you can ship home your wines too. well worth a visit.

http://www.lecantine.it/cantineUtente/index.php

information about Chianti classico wines - this is a great webpage - http://www.chianticlassico.com/english/index.asp

Chianti -villas and good reading...singing butcher and more
If you've ever read stories about Chianti - or articles in magazines about Italy you will have heard about Dario Cecchini - the singing butcher of Panzano. I have just finished a wonderful book - HEAT - by Bill Buford, describing his adventure about becoming a cook in a professional kitchen. To really learn about food - he is sent to Italy, to really learn about meat he is sent to the hill town of Chianti where he is tutored in th art of butchery by Italy's most famous butcher. His descriptions leave you with Fellini-esque images - imagine this scene as Buford arrives for the first time ..."Dario's butcher sho, the macelleria, was on a steep street next to the post office. Actually it was two shops joined together. ...The upper shop, where the wares were displayed were impossible to get into. there was a crush of people: inside, in the doorway, on th sidewalk, spilling into the street. Ho mnay? A hundred? more? Someone had a television camera on his shoulder. There were flashing bulbs. I could heard loud choral music of what I though might be Mozart's "Requiem." ( Why a requiem? then again, it's a butcher's shop: why not a requiem?) I pushed my way in. Everyone seemed to be holding a glass of red wine..."(p.217 HEAT)...and so Buford learns about meat - the bifstecca Fiorentina, the legendary Florentine steak - weighng about 5 pounds, is 5 - 6 inches thick and costs over $100! per piece. I have had it served in the most wonderful ways - I love this steak served 'tagliatta' with balsamico - which means sliced in balsamic vinegar.

Here's a wonderful recipe from the "Passionate cook"

Tagliata di manzo

(serves 2 VERY hungry people or 3 with a healthier attitude towards life)

600 g best quality beef fillet

3 tbsp olive oil

fleur de sel

freshly crushed black pepper

100 g parmesan (shavings)

50 g rocket salad ( ruccula)

balsamic vinegar

Clean the fillet and cut into 1 cm slices. Preheat the oven to 250 C or turn on the grill.

Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and cook until browning on the bottom and until the edges start turning white on top (This should take approximately 2-3 minutes). Transfer to (oven-proof) plates, season with the salt and pepper and arrange the parmesan shavings on top.

Put in the oven for another 2-3 minutes, the meat should still be red on top. Pile the rocket on top and sprinkle generously with balsamic vinegar.

Serve immediately with some crusty ciabatta.

The great thing about Buford's book is that along with these passionate characters and movie scene events - there is a wonderful history of the Chianti and Panzano specifically. You get to know the people, the valleys and vineyards, the eccentrics, the contadini and the nobles... If you want to really experience these - ClassicVacationRental.com has some lovely villas in this area.

One that immediately comes to mind, since we are on this food theme is villa Emma - the beautiful restored farmhouse that Anthony Bourdain used for his Television series on Italy. This villa can accomodate from 12 - 18 people. The main villa has 6 bedrooms, each with bathroom, a lovley large kitchen for cooking, the cottages can sleep another 6 ( villa can be rented without the cottages). This vllla also forms part of our Fully hosted villa program - with host, wonderful tuscan meals, cooking classes and more...

Another - on a boutique wine estate - is the Villa Panzano - set amidst the vineyards near Panzano with its infinity edge pool - this 5 bedroom villa is the ideal place from which to explore the wines and food of Chianti -

But there are many more properties - also for smaller groups - why not email ClassicVacationRental.com at info@classicvacationrental.com

Paris - a short visit in March
Paris

I arrived in Paris late March afternoon to attend a major Tourism Conference hosted by Maison de La France, responsible for tourism in France. A well organized event that let me discover lovely new properties and new people and services to provide interesting and unique things to see and do for our visitors to France. How about a wine tour in Paris - visiting neighbourhood wine bars, sampling special wines in each? interested... give us a call ( 1 888 830 9650); Paris by night on a river boat - with wonderful dinner and a live music to create the atmosphere? Horse and carriage ride through Paris?

Some wonderful villas in Provence, ideas for Nice and a spa retreat on the coast near St Tropez.

I stayed at the small hotel just a few blocks from the Musée d’Orsay, a little three star hotel that I first stayed in already in the 70’s. Originally the small rooms decorated with gingerbread wall paper only had a sink, the toilet down the hall; gradually over the years the hotel added and restored, then merged with the hotel next door. It is still a 3 star – and has nice simple rooms, breakfast is brought to your room, great location for walking everywhere in Paris.

As it was Sunday afternoon, and the conference did not start till the next day, I walked to the Tuillerie Gardens; right out the hotel door, down the street to the Musée d’Orsay and over the pedestrian bridge right into the gardens. Parisian families strolled the gardens; children played with the sail boats in the Bassin- just like in Impressionist painting.

What I like most about Paris- is the vistas – when you stand in the middle of the gardens and look one way – you can see the Place de la Concorde and the obelisk, all the way to the end of the Champs Elysées, the Arc de Triomphe and through the arch the Defense far down the Avenue to repeat the arch in modern style. Face the other way and you see the Carrousel Arch and the classical lines of the Louvre palace. ( not the best photo - as there was some construction that day)

This same view at night – but from the Place de La Concorde is a must see for everyone who comes to Paris, no matter how many times you have been here there is nothing like the Eiffel Tower lit up in one corner of the view, behind the gold shimmering statues of the Pont Alexandre, the majestic Academie Nationale on the left bank, the Arc de Triomphe lit from below at the top of the Champs Elysées, and the pyramid of the Louvre glowing behind, to the right the Place Vendôme column reaching for the sky… ah Paris…

Why not stay longer in Paris - enjoy being a Parisian for just a short time! Buy a fresh baguette, some wonderful cheese from the Bon Marche food emporium, a bottle of Bordeaux...and enjoy the Parisian rooftops from your own apartment. Next time - learn about some wonderful apartments I saw in Paris...

Meanwhile - check the webpage http://www.classicvacationrental.com/dest/listing.asp?region=Paris

Villa near Lucca

Beautiful villa near Lucca - Igea

look at this!!

Event From:	24-April-2010
Event To:	26-September-2010
Region:	Tuscany - Toscana