My trip to one of the world's most romantic cities was inspired by the least romantic of situations: a boys' night out in Soho, London, the kind that ends up in a random curry house before falling asleep on the night bus. On this night, however, we fell, quite by chance, into Polpo (see Jay Rayner's review), a relatively new restaurant that appeared to be some kind of tapas bar, was lively and not too pricey – yes, this would do.
It was an inspired choice. It turns out we weren't eating tapas ("We don't use the T-word here," said the waiter) but cichèti, small snacks unique to the bars of Venice. Our conversation, usually dominated by football, turned to the tenderness of sliced flank steak and the sweet softness of the sensational cuttlefish cooked in its own ink.
On more than 20 visits to Venice, Polpo owner Russell Norman has trawled the back-street bàcari, the small bars where locals pop in for a glass of wine and a snack, to find inspiration for Polpo. He is the right man to talk to about where to eat in what he calls "one of the world's worst destinations for food lovers".
"Avoid all the crappy tourist places," is Norman's advice, "anywhere with the menu in six languages stuck in the window or, worse still, one with photographs of lurid pizzas.
"But there is still a side of Venice which is alive and isn't Disneyland, and it's best typified by the bàcari."
With those words ringing in my ears, and a list of his favourite bàcari in my pocket, I headed off for La Serenissima.
Cutting edge ... La Cantina. Photograph: Gavin McOwan
A bar crawl, or giro di òmbre, is the best way to try Venice's bàcari, popping into each for a cichèti and accompanying òmbra (small glass of wine). And a good place to start was Ca' d'Oro – Alla Vedova (Cannaregio 3912, Ramo Ca' d'Oro), one of the best-known bàcari, on the Strada Nuova, well away from the city's touristy hub. On a Friday night it was packed with punters lingering around the bar, waiting for the hot polpette (pork rissoles) to emerge from the kitchen. These delicious balls of salty, finely minced pork (the inspiration for the meatballs at Polpo) were snapped up within seconds of hitting the old marble bar counter, washed down by unbottled Veneto red in tiny glasses. Both cost €1 a pop.
Part of the research for Russell Norman's Polpo restaurant, involved going to Venice as many times as he possibly could for ideas and inspiration. It became apparent very quickly that Venice's real culinary heart was in the wine bars and bàcari, not in the (mostly) awful restaurants. Read what happened when Gavin McOwan followed Russell's trail by looking above or clicking on this link
Travel writer Rick Steves looks at what's new in France this year, from online Eiffel Tower reservations to Paris museum renovations and Loire château tours.
Marie-Antoinette's hamlet at Versailles -- a working farm complete with domestic animals and thatched-roof houses -- is becoming increasingly popular with travelers.
Mixing an abundance of cultural treasures and national pride, France is spiffing up its sights and museums from the Rhine to the Pyrenees. Of course, the biggest news is in Paris, where 2010 brings important changes that smart travelers will want to know about.
The Eiffel Tower's new online reservation system (www.toureiffel.fr) should help on-the-ball travelers minimize time spent in the tower's notorious lines.
Facing the Eiffel Tower, Champ de Mars Park used to be the scene of families lounging on picnic blankets and kids chasing Frisbees. No longer, as keep-off-the-grass signs have returned. Thankfully, zones on the periphery still let you enjoy a sprawl on the lawn.
Many Parisian museums are renovating and tweaking their offerings. Paris' wonderful Picasso Museum has closed for a 30-month (some think longer) expansion. The Musee d'Orsay is also doing major renovations. At the Louvre, construction is under way on an Islamic Art wing, due to open in 2011. The pre-Classical Greek section is currently closed, and the Classical Greek pieces will likely be reorganized. The Army Museum's recently renovated Arms and Uniforms section covers French military history from Louis XIV to Napoleon III. And for those who enjoy city vistas more than abstract art, you can now get a cheap escalator-only ticket at the Pompidou Center, skip the higher-priced museum, and ride the escalator directly to the top for the view.
Long lines are the norm at the Catacombs, where skeletons unearthed from former Paris cemeteries have been neatly and eerily stacked, filling miles of tunnels left from a medieval quarry. Waits of 60 to 90 minutes are common. If you arrive later than 2:30 p.m., you may not get in. The Catacombs recently reopened after a spate of vandalism caused it to shut down. Security has been improved, and the loose skulls have been wired into place.
Versailles is wrapping up its multiyear renovation project, and all parts should be open. While Europe's greatest palace is the big draw, the vast royal park with the Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (the queen's frilly rural escape) is attracting crowds, too. Most of the palace is covered by the Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuseumpass.com), which for most travelers is a better deal than the LePasseport sold at the château and online (www.chateauversailles.fr).
Also outside Paris, Chartres' cathedral is undergoing routine restoration. So, while the interior will still be divinely lit, it'll be mostly scaffolding that's illuminated.
At Giverny, Monet's famous gardens are now open seven days a week from April through October. Adjacent to his studio, what was the Museum of American Art has become the Museum of the Impressionists, showing temporary exhibits. Appropriately, the featured artist in 2010 is Monet.
The famous abbey island of Mont St. Michel has been a huge pilgrim attraction for centuries. A modern causeway made it easier to reach the island, but also changed the flow of the tidal waters, causing the bay to slowly become marshland. These days, plans to restore the abbey's island status are moving ahead. Scheduled for completion in early 2010, the Couesnon River dam at the start of the causeway retains water upriver during high tide and releases it at low tide, in effect flushing the bay and keeping its famed mud flats muddy. In the future, the causeway will be realigned to meet a sleek foot bridge, and visitors will be shuttled from mainland parking lots to the bridge to walk the remaining 300 yards (over the water at high tide) to the island. The entire project is planned to be completed by 2014.
In the Loire, taking a bus or minivan excursion to see the valley's many châteaux can save time (in line) and money (on admissions) when you purchase your château ticket at a discounted group rate from the driver. Amboise's tourist office now sells "le Pass" — tickets bundled in groups of three to save on entry fees (most Loire area tourist information offices offer some sort of pass promoting their sights). To avoid the lines at the popular Château de Chenonceau, purchase advance tickets at local tourist offices or from ticket machines. In the great castle town of Chinon, a free panoramic elevator now zips visitors up to the newly renovated fortress that crowns the city.
All these improvements are a reminder that, more than ever, France is enthusiastic about sharing its heritage and welcoming visitors.
Edmonds-based Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. His column runs weekly at seattletimes.com/travel and occasionally in print.
While there are many excellent ways to slow down and experience Europe one of the best methods is renting an apartment, farmhouse, or villa. Find just the right spot and use it as a base to see the countryside at the same time experiencing the pleasure of really living in the country – even for just a short time.
How did you find the right spots? The same way you would at home: ask friends, look through guidebooks, and surf the web.
Before you look, identify what you hope to experience and where you want to go. Are you looking for an exciting and lively week in an urban location? Then Florence, Rome or Paris are better options than the countryside of Tuscany or Provence.
For example, If you are with teenage children you may be better in a town – such as Florence; you and I may dream of that lovely house in the countryside – where we can sit, enjoying the pool while sipping a glass of local wine, watching the sun set; but what about that 17 year old and his 14 year old sister? It is much easier if they can find a nice gelato ( ice cream) shop on a corner of the Piazza della Signoria in Florence and listen to the street musicians in front of the Uffizzi – think about it before you decide where to stay; Ask us – our experts can advise you.
Tips for Enjoying a Successful Rental
More than ever, when you’re staying in a weekly rental property, you need to be flexible and independent. Once you’ve checked in, that may be the last you see of the owners. Of course emergency contacts are always available. <BR>
Here are some tips to make the best of your rental experience:
1. Avoid peak season for better prices. Rental prices follow the old rule of supply and demand. You’ll pay more to visit popular vacation regions when the Europeans take their holidays in July and August. General rule of thumb for pricing is about € 1100 per bedroom per week – so if there are two of you this would be an average price, if there are 6 – i.e. 3 couples – the price would be about € 3300 per week. These are averages so of course prices can be lower or higher. Peak season is from late June to late August. Mid May, September and October are great months to visit Italy – good weather, pricing better;
2. If you want amenities, be willing to pay for them. A private pool can add substantially to the cost of a rural rental, as can air-conditioning in an urban apartment. During one of Florence’s hottest June weeks, though, the pool and AC were worth every euro!
3. For two to six people, Borgo style apartments are an excellent lower-cost option to an entire villa or farmhouse. Often the owners have renovated an original rambling farmhouse or medieval estate into a series of well-constructed apartments with private kitchens, bathrooms, living areas, and individual outdoor terraces. They usually share a common pool and other amenities.
4. Most properties rent on a traditional Saturday-to-Saturday time period. You will probably be unable to rent for a different or shorter time, especially during peak seasons.
5. You will need private transportation, such as a rental car, to fully enjoy—or even reach—a rural rental property. Many properties are located in the countryside – up an unpaved (strada Bianca) road. Be prepared for gravel roads of varying quality, they are regularly maintained and usually fine. Ask your agent if you are concerned.
6. The rental property usually comes with an “instruction manual” containing information on how to operate the appliances and suggestions for local restaurants, shops, and sightseeing. Go with the property owner’s suggestions to discover local restaurants and activities you might never stumble upon otherwise.
7. Use the local mom-and-pop grocery stores, butcher shops, pastry shops, and bakeries. Get to know your local green grocer and he’ll treat you like a local—personally selecting the ripest fruit and freshest salad fixings. Part of the fun is collecting all the goodies; the other part is creating meals with them in your fully-equipped kitchen. You can also arrange for any or all meals to be cooked. A fun thing to do is arrange for a cook to come in and do a lesson in your home.
8. Explore your neighborhood. An early morning walk as the sun rises will probably find you in the company of the local farmer as he trims his grape vines, or the neighboring Italian grandmother who is lovingly tending her small garden. Go ahead—interact, even if you don’t speak the local language.
9. Slow down and enjoy. Even take a day off—or, as Rick says, a vacation from your vacation. One of the joys of staying for at least a week in one location is you can develop a true dolce far niente ("sweetness of doing nothing") attitude. If the rain is pattering outside, grab a book from the in-house library and curl up on the sofa.
10. Remember renting a property offers the chance to partake in the culture of the area chosen, living for a few weeks in the same surroundings as a local inhabitant would.
These converted properties may not be official tourist structures such as hotels, residences etc but private houses. Being such, they do not have standards or categories that are internationally recognized, rather they reflect, in their architecture and furnishings, the local traditions and personal taste of the owner.
In order to live this experience in the right spirit, it is important not only that the client accepts but also that he will be able to appreciate the differences in the properties offered. .
Staying put in one spot gives you the chance to let the days unwind without a plan. .
Often the highlights of our journeys are the unexpected thrills – a medieval gathering in Cortona, with all the townspeople in full costume, a sunset as the monks of Sant’Antimo chant the vespers… and so much more.
Cutting edge ... La Cantina. Photograph: Gavin McOwan 
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